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Felting…

Felt Balls

Felt Balls

the fabulous art of removing air and wonderfully clean hands!

What is Felt?

Very simply, felt is matted wool. Wool becomes felt when it is subjected to moisture, heat, and pressure. (In fact, if domestic sheep were not shorn, over time their wool would felt or “cot”.) Hot soapy water makes the wool slippery, and causes tiny scales on the fiber to “open up”. The scales prevent the fibers from backing up again after they slide across each other; with agitation, the fibers get hopelessly tangled together. When cooled and dried, the scales close and lock the wool into the tough, durable material we call felt.

For this first project you will need a nine-inch cake pan, some liquid detergent (Joy, Dawn,etc.), a kitchen sink, hot and cold water, and about 30 minutes.

Laying Out the WoolLay out a half-ounce of washed and carded wool. Divide into three equal portions. Spread out the first portion so that the wool evenly covers the bottom of the cake pan, with all of the fibers running in the same direction. Place the second layer on top of the first with the layers at right angles to the layer beneath. Repeat with the third layer, arranging the fibers cross-ways to the layer below.

Wetting the WoolSquirt a small amount of liquid detergent over the top layer of wool. Then gently pour about a half cup of HOT water over the wool.

Pressing Down the WoolPress straight onto the wool pile so that the wool compresses into a mass on the bottom of the pan. Add more hot water until all of the wool is wet. Work around the edges, pressing down until all of the wool is matted down.

Working the WoolHold the pan in one hand, while you gently massage the edge of the wool with the fingertips of the other hand. Use your palm to gently agitate the center. Slowly rotate the pan as you work. Keep rolling the edge of the wool slightly inwards to give it a smooth, finished shape. The soap will squish up between your fingers and the wool will matt togther. After about 5 minutes the wool will begin to firm up, and you can begin to work with a more vigorous circular motion.

Turning the FeltAfter about 10 minutes, the felt will hold together well enough to turn it over. Tip the pan and gently flop the wool out into your hand and place it upside down in the pan. Add more soap or hot water if necessary, and continue working the wool as before.

RinsingRun warm water into the pan and pour off the soapy water. Then run cold water over the wool and press the water out of it. It should be round, about an eighth of an inch thick, and a little smaller than the pan. It should be felt! If you continue working it, it will grow thicker and smaller. Its not that you are losing wool, its that you are losing air spaces.

Fulling the Felt(You don’t have to do this part) If you want the felt to be strong, continue working the felt by running more hot water over it, and rolling and squeezing it in your hands. The more you do this, the “fuller” (thicker and stronger) it becomes.

Pressing and Drying

When you’re finished felting you may want to use an iron (set at “wool”) to speed up the drying and flatten it out nicely. Congradulations! You’re done!

How to Turn a Crochet Chain

DSC00404The trick in reaching the end of a row of crochet, then turning the work to begin the next row, is in starting the new row in the correct stitch. With the wrong stitch, the piece becomes too wide or too narrow.

Instructions:

1. Turn the work right to left.

DSC004052. Chain once if you’re working in single crochet; twice if you’re working in half-double crochet; three times if you’re working in double crochet; and four times if you’re working in triple crochet.

DSC004973. Insert the hook in the first stitch for single or half-double crochet.

DSC004984. Insert the hook in the second stitch for double or triple crochet.

International Basic Symbols pt2

Basic Symbol pt2

Basic Symbol pt2

International Basic Symbols

These are considered International symbols.

1: 2 different versions of the slip stitch.
2: Chain stitch
3: 2 different versions of the single crochet
4: Half double
5: Double
6: Treble
7: Double treble

Symbols Chart

Symbols Chart

Tips to Help You with Your Crochet Project

When you’re working on a large project mark your stitches every 25 stitches – you can use pins, etc. 

If you’re attaching two pieces of work together, use a smaller hook, to prevent a bulky seam. 

Weaving in your ends as you work on your crochet will help your finished project look far neater.

When you’ve got yarn left at the end of a project it’s easier to store if you put it in balls.

Keep your crochet hooks clean by wiping them down with alcohol (if you have metal hooks) and cotton balls. 

If you’re working on a piece that is very dark yarn (such as black) you might want to consider putting a piece of white material on your lap.

If you’re working with a variety of yarns and you’re concerned about different weights, here’s a simple conversion chart so you can double up the yarn!

* 2 strands of fingering weight yarn = 1 strand sport weight Yarn
* 2 strands of sport weight yarn     = 1 strand of worsted weight
* 2 strands of worsted weight        = 1 strand of bulky
* 3 strands of worsted weight        = 1 strand of super bulky or chunky weight yarn

 

Picture of clothes model click and see what your pattern will look like
the numbers; for instance 8 x 12 = your gauge so you have to knit a tension swatch first and then choose your pattern with the right gauge.

Crochet: Basic Techniques

Proper techniques begin with how to hold hook and yarn correctly so that you’re comfortable with them when working on a project.  Let’s begin with holding the hook.  There are two ways to hold your hook:

ð  Hold it as though you were holding a pencil – position and apply a light grip on the hook, or

ð  Hold it the same way as you would grip a spoon when mixing something thick.

ð  And now the yarn:  a basic technique is to make a slip knot, attaching the yarn to your hook.  Three simple steps to tie the slip knot:

ð  Loop the yarn around your left index finger

ð  Let the yarn slip from your finger, holding the loop between your thumb and index finger,

ð  With the hook held by your right hand, draw the loop up and around the hook.

ð  Then pull each of the ends gently in opposite directions.  This will tighten the knot and make it smaller.
Practice, Practice, Practice!

The technique of feeding yarn into your work takes a bit of practice.  With your left hand, pick up the yarn, and with the palm of your left hand facing up, thread the yarn through the fingers.  Practice holding the yarn so that it “flows” naturally through your fingers.  Move your index finger up and down to increase or decrease the tightness of the yarn.  As you progress, you will feel a rhythm that works best for you, making the movement more natural and effortless.

Catching the Yarn Technique

This is known as a yarn over (abbreviation:  yo).  Your index finger plays a crucial role in yarn over movements.  Each time you catch the hook, you guide the yarn by moving your index finger up and down.  To do a yarn over:

ð  Pass the hook under and over the yarn from back to front,

ð  If you’re having problems wrapping the yarn around all your fingers:  instead of wrapping the yarn, just let it flow behind your index finger, in front of your middle and ring fingers and back behind your little finger.

Next time we’ll be discussing alittle about “Some Great Crocheting Tips“.

Crochet Symbols

Below are all the crochet stitches and their symbols. ;)
Crochet Stitches & Symbols

Crochet Stitches & Symbols

Crochet Abbreviations

Crochet patterns use a large variety of abbreviations. Here are the most common and what they mean:

YO or yo (Yarn Over)- To yarn over means to bring the yarn over the hook of your crochet hook so that the hook can catch the yarn and draw it through the loop. Literally, bring the yarn over the hook.
ch-chain stitch
sc- single crochet
hdc- half double crochet
dc- double crochet
tc_ treble crochet
st(s)- stitch(es)
sl st- slip stitch
sk- skip
dec- decrease
inc- increase
sc2tog- single crochet two stitches togehter

Easy Guide to Yarn Weights

Yarn is divided by weight, or how many stitches in a gauge of 4 inches. The thinner the yarn, the more stitches in the gauge. The thicker the yarn, the less stitches in the gauge.
  • Super Bulky/Super Chunky (4-11 stitches for 4 inches)- These yarns yield the fastest projects with the fewest number of stitches.
  • Bulky/Chunky (12-15 stitches for 4 inches)- These yarns are used for scarves, afghans, and other projects.
  • Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)- These are the most popular weight yarns for a variety of projects.
  • Light/DK (21-24 stitches to 4 inches)- These yarns are often used for lighter, summer-weight garments and many baby items.
  • Fine (23-26 stitches to 4 inches)- These yarns are used for more intricate patterns and for projects such as socks.
  • Super Fine (27-32 stitches to 4 inches)- These light yarns are used for baby items.
  • Lace (33-40 stitches to 4 inches)- 10-count crochet thread used for lace projects.

More on Yarns

The length and quality of the fiber in a yarn determines its texture, luster, strength and hand. Knitting yarn made from long fibers will pill less, be smoother, stronger, more lustrous and more elastic. Yarns containing a mixture of fiber lengths are softer, fuzzier and less strong. Tightly twisted yarns display the texture of a pattern to its best advantage.

ANIMAL YARNS:

Wool yarn comes from a domesticated sheep. Wool accepts dye well, is flame-retardant by nature, remains warm even when wet, sheds water better than other yarns. Natural wool should be hand-washed. ‘Superwash’ wool has been treated to allow machine washing. Wool will usually resume its proper shape when washed correctly; if it is mistreated and washed in too-hot water, it will shrink or felt.

Mohair yarn comes from an Angora goat. Mohair is durable, sheds dirt, dyes well and does not felt easily. Despite its hardiness, it is usually spun into knitting yarn used for fluffy garments and scarves. This knitting yarn is abraded, roughing its fibers to create that ‘fuzzy’ look.

Angora yarn comes from rabbits. Fabric made from this yarn is inelastic (no stretch), very fluffy, soft and warm.

Silk is the yarn produced by silk moths. Silk knitting yarn is made from damaged silk cocoons and broken fibers. ‘Raw’ silk still has the original moth secretions in it. ‘Tussah,’ silk obtained from wild moths is brown. The food fed to domesticated moths determines their silk’s natural color; this can white, green or yellow. Silk retains heat, absorbs moisture, pills less than wool, is very strong and very stable when knit, neither shrinking or stretching.

Cashmere yarn comes from the undercoat of a Cashmere goat. It is so expensive because only a few ounces are obtained from each goat per year. It is such a delicate yarn, more fragile than wool and more susceptible to abrasion, that it is usually blended with wool to make it more durable.

Alpaca Like cashmere, angora, and mohair, alpaca is a luxury fiber that is available in very limited quantities. Actually, most alpaca fleece goes into the production of tops which are used in blends with other fibers. One hundred percent alpaca garments are much rarer. For these reasons, alpaca is expensive. Like other luxury fiber garments, alpaca knitwear should be dry-cleaned or hand washed in cold water and dried flat.

VEGETABLE YARNS:

Cotton yarn comes from the surrounding of the seeds in a cotton pod. Cotton is heavy, dense and inelastic; although it will regain its shape after washing, its ability to do so decreases over time. It is comfortable to wear in a cool climate but not a hot one (the opposite of wool) and is slow to dry once wetted. It makes a weaker knitting yarn than silk or linen but is stronger than wool.

Linen yarn comes from the flax plant. It is durable and stronger than any other yarn. It absorbs moisture better than cotton and dries more quickly, making it more comfortable to wear than cotton in hot temperatures. It is easier to wash than wool and does not stretch or shrink.

Ramie yarn is made from nettles. It is often used as a substitute for linen since it is less expensive but shares linen’s good qualities.

Rayon is a yarn produced from natural ingredients by artificial means.
Rayon yarn is a weak fiber but it is absorbent, dries quickly, and stretches (although it does recover some when dried in a automatic dryer.)