Learn Ginantsilyo By Project

You can only learn crocheting by actually making a project!

A try on Irish Lace, Bruge’s Lace and Filet Crochet

Last week, I was fortunate enough to have all the time in the world to just crochet to my heart’s content. I want to share what I have come up with.

First is a Bruge’s lace concept idea that have been running on the back of my mind for a long time now. I had the chance to jot it down, and I want to share this with you.

Bruge’s lace is easy to start but is rather complicated to work around. I have tried to work on a bruge’s lace project before that did not succeed because I forced to finish this during a travel wherein I wasn’t able to gauge the right size. Hence, big fail.

Bruge’s lace has many facets, such as any other crochet tecnhiques, but I am able to try the basic one, that which forms a continuous vertical strip you turn to form a round corner to adjust the width of the lace:

Attempt on Bruge’s Lace

This pink project should have been a pair of shorts. I failed to make the right size for the crotch area and I have to unravel the whole lace strip to correct it so i decided to just let it be.

But this kind of lace amidst its simplicity is so alluring against the skin that I know I have to do something like this again. And yes, since then, I have been conjuring a basic design I could probably make in the future. And here it is:

Bruge’s Lace Conceptual Design with Hexagonal motifs

The Bruge’s lace part here is already in the works but I haven’t gotten the time to actually photograph.

Now the other obsession is my liking for irish crochet. I have been trying to create something using this technique but if the project is too small to satisfy my obsession, I haven’t created anything that is really successful. My first project on irish crochet resulted in creating Big and Fat Silver Earrings, and the Lacy Headband. This time, while trying to create another lacy headband, I realized I could take the time to create an Irish inspired blouse.

Passion Flower Design from Priscilla Crochet Collection. Lifted from the book, “Irish Crochet and How to Make it”

I started with my most favorite design of Irish Crochet, the Passion Flower. I love the complexity of the stitches and the simplicity of the actual output. It looks dainty and one can be immediately curious about the cylinders of rolled over threads in the center of the flower. With this motif, I learned how to make the roll over stitch.

Working on irish crochet

Initially, I thought I can crochet in between stitches and mend using a hook rather than a needle. This proved to be very difficult and time consuming so I took the bother to find for a tapestry needle. It was a wise decision.

Motif Construction

As this was my first successful attempt in pursuing this kind of crochet construction, I was quite proud that two days passed without me, giving up. I knew I just have to finish the irish lace front and do some filet mesh on the back.

Irish Lace Front – Filet Crochet Back

Currently, everything is still a work in progress. Work suddenly has to catch up and I have to rest my projects for the meantime. But I am eager to come back to these every possible time. I hope I can show you the finished blouses soon!!

Introducing: Lacy Cable Stitch

This is a stitch combination I recently conjured. I am not sure if anyone has produced the same pattern, if they have, please notify me so I could reference them properly.

The pattern focuses on achieving cable stitch using crochet on a lacy mesh of fabric. The fundamental skills you must know before trying this pattern is how to fpdc and bpdc. [Front Post DC and Back Post DC]. There are a lot of resources available online to learn how to do these stitches and let me point you to some:

How to work front-post DC for dummies: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-work-frontpost-doublecrochet-stitches.html
How to work back-post DC for dummies: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-work-backpost-doublecrochet-stitches.seriesId-234043.html

Cable stitch is more popular in knitted garments. It has a number of variation, but we will create something similar to the close bud knitting cable stitch described in this website:

Closed Bud Cable Knitting Stitch

But ours would take a different twist, that we will make the cable on top of a lacy mesh fabric:

lacy cable stitch

The cable consists of six front post dc stitches twisting and turning, with additional 3bpdc on the middle to create an illusion of depth. The base is alternating 3fpdc and 3 bpdc to form the ribbing. The mesh is alternating 5ch sc.

If you will crochet this, note that this is not a reversible mesh. Meaning the wrong and right side creates different textures. Please note the wrong side and right side of your fabric. (right click image to view the full size of the chart)

LACY CABLE STITCH DIAGRAM

Stitch Diagram shows a sample of 39ch as foundation stitch. Your odd rows are the wrong side of the fabric and the even rows are the right side of the fabric
.

When on the right side, FPDC creates the ribbing and BPDC creates the depth, and vice versa when on the back side (BPDC = rib, FPDC = depth). The crossing of the ribs will create the cabled stitch.

To continue from the stitch diagram, rows 10 and above will repeat stitches from row 6

Lacy Cable Stitch

Three Way Crocheted Bandeau – Free Pattern

As promised, I have finally written the pattern for my Three-way crocheted bandeau (Though it’s three way, I mostly use this as headband :D)

You can use this as (1) neck scarf (2) Headband (3) belt

Notes on the yarn used:

I used a woolen yarn (90% lambswool) that felts (I did not felt it but it felts overtime when you laundry it) So the resulting texture is very soft.

I am destashing some yarns here:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.217809011697560.63447.187368954741566&type=3

You can use any kind of yarn you want But the texture and output would really be different.

Chillin’ with my sister and friend on a hot afternoon

You can download the pdf pattern here:

Just in case the crochet chart is not clear, download original here:

Three way crocheted bandeau – crochet chart for sides

Please send a comment here for feedback. If you manage to finish a project, do share it on my facebook wall: http://facebook.com/ginantsilyo.

Three Way Crocheted Bandeau

Happy crocheting!

Calla Lily – Crocheted Earrings

I love the book 100 Flowers to knit and crochet by Lesley Stanfield. My only problem with this is almost all the lovely flowers I would love to crochet is given as “knit instructions”.

100 Flowers to knit and crochet by Lesley Stanfield

But fortunately, I have taken the instructions given in the book as guide to hacking my crochet instructions of the calla lily. If you are a knitter, proceed to following the instructions given in this page. If you are a crocheter like me, I have a decent hack of the said pattern:

100 Flowers to knit and crochet – arum lily

Note that I do not claim to have an exact translation of the knit-crochet pattern. Also I am not very good in writing instructions.

This is my crochet version of the motif:

The trick is use embroidery threads instead of yarn, 0.70mm hook and White Glue to make the earrings stiff after crocheting

Tools for creating tiny earrings

You will need three colors of thread: Yarn A (white), Yarn B (green), Yarn C (yellow)

Use Yarn C:

The spathe is crocheted using 6 strands of thread.

ch 10. Fold in two. (set aside)

—

Special stitches:

2sc cluster: 2sc in 1 st, equivalent to 2sc count

2sctog: 1 sc in 2 st, equivalent to 1 sc count

(n)sc: where (n) is number, 1sc on 1st (n) times;

The lily:

Use two strands of Yarn A:

Foundation ch 6, (crochet in rounds, with sl st to close each round)

round 1: 9 sc around

round 2: sc, 2sc cluster (around) make 15 sc

round 3 – 6: 15 sc around

Fill the cavity with excess thread

round 7: sc, 2sctog around (makes 9 sc)

crochet in rows, start each row with ch

row 8-9: 9sc

row 10: sc, 2sc cluster for the remaining 8 st, (17 sc)

row 11: sc, 2sc cluster for the remaining 16 st (33 sc)

row 12-13: 33sc

row 14 – 17: *2sc, 2sctog* (repeat * til end of row)( make 25sc, 19 sc, 14sc, 11sc)

row 18-23: *2sctog, 2sc* (repeat * til end of row) (make 8sc, 6sc, 4sc, 3sc)

row 24: 2sctog, sc (2 sc)

row 25: 2sctog (1sc)

row 25: sc (1sc)

cut off yarn

——

Use two strands of Yarn B.

attach yarn to the tip of the lily (foundation ch)

9sc (three rows)

Insert the spathe inside the lily.

Cover the earrings with white glue then let it dry.

Attach pearl/bead to the end of the lily using jewelry wire

—-

Final Product:

Dangling Crocheted Earrings – motif: Arum Lily
from 100 flowers to knit and crochet by Lesley Stanfield

Second attempt:

Calla Lily White

Free Pattern: Nelia – Crocheted Blouse Pattern for the Back

Here’s the fourth part of the crochet series: Nelia. I am done with the pattern for the back and I am just so excited to share it!

[Learn Ginantsilyo by Project]

What the project is about: crocheting the back part of the Nelia – crocheted blouse by using the lace pattern discussed here and use increasing and decreasing stitches to form desired shape.

What is challenging for this part is maintaining the desired shape. I really enjoyed playing with the stitch count to form the back part. Here’s why:

Back part of Nelia – crocheted blouse showing a complicated decrease in stitch count

See that part when i have to maintain that the front and back part spaces should match! and the ‘decrease’ to form the back part of the sleeve looks complicated! And it really was!

I had to always bring the crocheted garment on a piece of pattern I earlier prepared so as whenever I do each row, I have to make sure I acquire the desired shape.

Here’s the pattern for the back. Dig in and enjoy!

Instructions:

[Important note! From your last row, do not cut off the yarn, work from last row (Row 31)]

Row 32: ch 10( counts as 1 tr tr, and 3 ch sp), do 10 tr tr and 2ch repeats on each st of previous row, the tricky part here is to crochet on the previous rows due to decreases. see the dashed line to know where you should put your hook.Continue doing tr tr 2ch until ur on 25th row. turn

Row 33: ch 4 (counts as 1sc and 3ch sp) do 16 sc 3ch until you reach the end of previous row. You will be working as if you are working sideways.the next 12 mesh repeat stitches will be done as if you are working in rows

first row (including last 3ch sp) ch 1, dc. turn
2nd row 4ch dc turn (do 10 more rows)

Row 34. ch 1, do 27 sc 3ch repeats. sc. Turn

Row 35: ch 4 (counts as 1 sc 3ch sp), do 27 sc 3ch repeats. sc. turn;

Row 36: ch 2sc, repeat 22 times. sc. Turn

Row 37: ch, Do 23 sc 3ch repeats. sc. turn

Row 38: ch. Do 21 sc 3ch repeats. turn

Row 39: ch. Do 19 sc 3ch repeats. sc. Turn

Row 40: ch 10( counts as 1 tr tr, and 3 ch sp), Do 14 tr tr (triple treble) 2ch repeats. Do 2 dtr (double treble) 2ch repeats, do 3 tr (treble) 2 ch repeats, do 3 dc 2ch repeats, do sc 2ch repeats. On Row 40 you will work into the 35th row when u reach the end.

Row 41. You have to start your stitch on 8th standing st (second treble from the sleeves part)

4ch (counts as sc and 3ch sp). Do 18 sc 3ch repeats. sc. Turn.

Row 42: (to be continued)

Here is the pattern, you can download it by clicking the image below.

back part crochet pattern for nelia – crocheted blouse

Free Pattern: Nelia – Crocheted Blouse Pattern for the Front

Finally, I was able to finish the pattern for the upper front part of the blouse.

[Learn Ginantsilyo by project]

Rough Sketch of the blouse

What the project is about: crocheting the front part of the Nelia – crocheted blouse by using the lace pattern discussed here and use increasing and decreasing stitches to form a shape

One of the skills I learned as a crocheter is to create shapes by decreasing and increasing stitches. A simple mesh can take form by carefully adjusting the number of stitches per row. Following this notion, I decided on crocheting a top with a wide arm hole – forming the ‘sleeves’ as shownon the left. The sleeves here would be part of the main crocheted garment and would not be crocheted separately.

The UPPER – FRONT PART OF THE GARMENT:

Upper Front Part of Nelia-Crocheted Blouse

The first part that I made was the upper front part of the blouse. You could see that there are increasing stitches on the left side of the cloth to form the sleeves and decreasing stitches on the right side of the cloth to form the neckline. The front parts are crocheted separately since we would join them using a ‘tie’ or a ribbon made from crocheted chain.

Crochet Instructions and Pattern:

We start by crocheting the foundation chain.

Foundation Chain : 55ch [start the next row by crocheting 1ch]

Rows 1-3: Start the Mesh described here.

Row 4: 2sc -ch repeats on the entire row

Rows 5-7: Same as Rows 1-3

Rows 1-7 will form the first part of the lace ‘stripes’.

Row 8: Make a wide stripe by doing a triple treble – 2ch repeats on the entire row. This open lace work will form the second stripe of the lace.

Do rows 9-15 in increasing stitches. Increase should be made by adding another sc – 3ch (same st) every time you reach the armhole part.

Row 16: same as Row 8 but add another tr tr – 2ch on the armhole part to increase stitch

Rows 17-23 will be same as rows 9-15 but start decreasing on the neckline on the 23rd row by turning to 24th row leaving two spaces [space == sc – 3ch] on the 22nd row.

Row 24 – Form the neckline by slowly increasing the stitch height and still following the pattern st – 2ch. The increasing of the stitch height would be (disregarding the 2ch)

[sc – hdc – dc – tr – d tr – t tr on the rest of the row]

Rows 25 – 31 would have decreasing on both sides (arm hole and neckline) The 31st row should have a total of 43 stitches or 10 spaces (sc – 3ch)

Crochet Pattern:

Front Pattern for Nelia – Crocheted Blouse

[You can download the pattern by clicking on the image]

The instructions and the pattern should guide you in making the upper front part of the blouse. Remember to make two of these but do not cut the yarn off until the next instructions for the back part. The back part and the front part will be crocheted as one, but the way the stitches were decreased for the back part is a bit more complicated.

See you for the next patten!

Nelia: Crocheted Blouse with front and back ties adorned with pearls

I was able to finish the crocheted top for my mother-in-law. Hence, I am very, very happy. To top the excitement brought by finishing a project, I get to take down a few notes on how I arrived on the design.

I remember the night when I was repeating rows and rows to be able to form the desired shape of the shoulder to armhole part of the top.

This prompted me to perhaps, write down the pattern for this blouse.

The project: Nelia – Crocheted Blouse with front and back ties adorned with pearls

Tadaan! the finished project: A very breezy crocheted blouse. Since she will be wearing this in Saudi, it is but right to make the lace wide and obvious.

Yup, you got it, my mother-in-law’s name is Nelia 😀

I first tried to make a floral pattern but the overall effect became like a curtain so i stopped doing that, and then I got this striped lace effect. I really like stripes 😀

Crocheted blouse for my mother-in-law

Sneak preview of the pattern:

I am not able to finish the whole pattern today, because I have loads of other stuffs to do, too I also played with my baby today, and watched the UAAP 2012 Cheerdance Competition, [Hooray! UP WON!] but i was able to somehow draft the basic design of the lace. here it is:

Lace Pattern for the crocheted blouse

Note that the basic lace is just sc 3ch alternating on each row and then 2sc ch on the fourth then repeat the first three rows. The second layer of lace is a single row of triple treble 2ch repeats. The next part of the post would be about the adjustments on the pattern to form the shape of the shoulder and collar.

Hope to see you again!

Please read Part II here

Crocheted Earrings using mini crochet motifs-I

[Learn Ginantsilyo by Project]

What the project is about: crocheting small flowers using embroidery threads

One of the skills I learned as a crocheter is to interpret knitting instructions to crochet and read japanese crochet instruction books, since most of the stuffs i want to do are written as such. These skills are what I used to create these earrings:

Earring 1: Studded Crocheted Earrings – motif: sunflower

Studded Crocheted Earrings – motif: sunflower
from 100 Mini Motif Crochet Patterns Japanese Crochet Craft Book

Earring 2: Dangling Crocheted Earrings – motif: arum lily

Dangling Crocheted Earrings – motif: Arum Lily
from 100 flowers to knit and crochet by Lesley Stanfield

Skills to learn:

Read Japanese crochet instructions
Interpret knitting instructions to crochet

Materials needed:

Crochet Hook [0.8 – 0.9mm]
Embroidery Threads [use two strands]
White Glue
Earring studs and hooks and other findings also jewelry tools like pliers
Scissors
Super Glue
Reference books

I used two popular books for my reference: 100 Mini Motif Crochet Patterns Japanese Crochet Craft Book and 100 flowers to knit and crochet by Lesley Stanfield. These books are easily searched on google

I bought my studded earrings on an online seller at Multiply [link here] and I got some old earring hooks on my stash

PROJECT 1: Mini Motif Crochet Pattern 16

I love this book. It has loads of stuffs in it and I have been using this as reference for all my crocheted projects in embroidery threads. So now, i tried making one decent output from this.

100 Mini Motif Crochet Patterns Japanese Crochet Craft Book – Cover

The pattern i used is on page 15 labeled Pattern 16

100 Mini Motif Crochet Patterns Japanese Crochet Craft Book – Sunflower Pattern # 16
[Image from https://picasaweb.google.com/augusta2005/MiniMotifCrochetPattern#5309421990371768690]

This is how i interpreted the pattern:

I used three colors (orange, yellow and green) of the embroidery threads, the japanese instructions says that using the orange thread:

1. Create a loop and crochet 4 sc around to form a ring [4st] (round1), 2sc on each st [8st] (round 2), 2sc on each st [16st] (round 3), sc on each st for two rounds [16st] (round 4-5), sctog on 2 st [8 st] (round 6)

2. attach the yellow thread on the formed flower core, here you have to crochet a bubble of 3 dcs on each st from previous row and then 2ch sc 2ch on each space in between stitches. This will make 8 petals.

3. Attach the green yarn on top of any petals, ch 5, skip 1ch, sc, hdc, 2dc, hdc, sc on each side of the ch to form the leaf.

The instructions from above will make the flower. Create two.

Next put white glue on the back of the flowers using cotton buds. Avoid getting the glue on your fingers. Let the glue dry on the fabric. This would make the flowers stiff and maintain its form.

Attach the stud earrings using super glue, let it dry.

PROJECT 2: Arum Lily Dangling Earrings

Eversince I learned about this book, i just got frustrated because most of the flowers I want to do is in knitting instructions, and I do not know how to knit. Then after sometime I realized that the knitting instructions can be interpreted in crochet! And voila!

100 Flowers to knit and crochet by Lesley Stanfield

The pattern i used is on page 57 labeled Pattern 25, Arum Lily

100 Flowers to knit and crochet – arum lily

The knitting instructions are quite clear so i would just provide translation for crocheting.

Drop the purl st [by drop i mean do not do all the rows that says P
K is sc
kpk (knit purl knit) asks you to make three stitches in one st, so do 3sc on a st
s2kpo asks you decrease stitches so do 2sctog in one st
m1, k1 also asks you to increase stitches, do 2sc on a st, and sc on next st
k2tog is 2sctog

I followed the instructions from 1st round and disregarded the stem since i just crocheted round (4sc) for stem on desired length

For the Spike, i used 8 strands of embroidery thread and just do 6 ch.

I sew the spike on the flower, attached the flower in an earring hook and there! I also used white glue to make the flower stiff.

I can entertain more detailed how-to’s through comments

Free Pattern: Felted Baby Slippers with Textured Sole

[Learn Ginantsilyo by Project]

What the project is about: This is my attempt to felt the lambwool yarns I bought from China.

One of the skills I am attempting to learn as a crocheter is to felt wool. In this project, I tried to create slippers with felted sole for added comfort to the wearer.

I was playing with my fiance’s niece when I saw one of her slippers lying around. I picked it up and got inspired to make a pair of slippers. It’s what I do usually. Be inspired then crochet.

This pair of slippers is made with felted wool, for additional touch of softness and comfort. Plus ankle-wrap straps to secure the slippers on for extra flirty style. I also made the bottom sole textured for rough – look.

The project – Felted Baby Slippers with Textured Sole:

Felted Baby Slippers with Textured Sole

About the yarns and the hook:

Brown Yarn – this was bought in Indonesia at http://craftandme.com under their Soft Cotton Category.

Red Yarn – this was bought in China at http://tradekey.com. I negotiated with one of the suppliers there and got a huge lot of lambswool from them.

Needle

Hook Size

Size 2.1mm

Gauge/Tension

6ch ~ 1in

Finished Size

5.5 in x 2.5in

Abbreviations

ch = chain

sc = Single Crochet

hdc = Half Double Crochet

tc = Treble Crochet

sl st = Slip Stitch

sk = Skip

st = stitch

Pattern Notes

The textured effect was created by alternating treble and single crochet.

Each round starts with 1 ch.

Method

(Middle Sole and Top Sole) using Yarn A and Yarn B:

sole A and Sole B

Foundation Chain: Chain 20

1^st row: hdc on 2^nd ch from hook. 17 hdc. (sk 1^st ch) 3 hdc on 2^nd ch, 17 hdc on back st of ch, 2hdc on last 2^nd ch. Sl st.

2^nd row: ch 1. 18hdc, (2hdc on next st) twice, 18 hdc, (2hdc on next st) twice. Sl st.

3^rd row: ch 1. 2hdc on 1^st

st. 16 hdc, (2 hdc on next st) twice. 2 hdc, (2 hdc on next st) twice. 16 hdc, (2 hdc on next st) twice. 2 hdc, 2hdc on next st. slip st.

4^th row: ch 1, 20 hdc. (2hdc on next st) twice. 2 hdc, . (2hdc on next st) twice. 20 hdc, . (2hdc on next st) twice. 2 hdc, . (2hdc on next st) twice. Sl st.

5^th row: ch 1, 20 hdc. (2hdc on next st) twice. 6 hdc, . (2hdc on next st) twice. 20 hdc, . (2hdc on next st) twice. 6 hdc, . (2hdc on next st) twice. Sl st. Turn

6^th row: 5 hdc, 2hdc on next st, 2 hdc, 2hdc on next st, 1 hdc, 2 hdc on next st, 7 hdc. Turn

7^th row: ch 1, sk 1^st st, 18 hdc, sl st. Turn

8^th row: ch 1, sk 1^st st. 5 hdc. 2 hdc on next st, 5 hdc, 2 hdc on next st. 3 hdc, sl st. Turn

9^th row: ch 1, sk 1^st st, 4 hdc, 2 hdc on next st, 7 hdc, 2 hdc on next st, 2 hdc. Turn.

10^th row: ch 1, sk 1^st st, 11 hdc, 2 hdc on next st, 2 hdc. Turn

11^th row: ch 1, sk 1^st 2 st, 10 hdc. Turn

12^th row: ch 1, sk 1^st 2 st, 3 hdc, sk 1 st, 3 hdc. Turn

13^th row: ch 1, sk 1^st 2 st, 3 hdc. Sl st.

Finishing: To smoothen edges of the, sl st with additional sc every now and then:

Textured Sole:

Use Yarn A:

The following stitches are done with alternating treble and single crochet. Every round starts with 1 ch.

Note that st represents alternating single and treble crochet

Foundation Chain: Chain 20

1^st row: 1 st on 2^nd ch from hook. 17 st (sk 1^st ch) 3 st on 2^nd ch, 17 st on back st of ch, 2 st on last 2^nd ch. Sl st.

2^nd row: ch 1. 18 st, (2 st on next st) twice, 18 st, (2st on next st) twice. Sl st.

3^rd row: ch 1. 2 st on 1^st st. 16 st, (2 st on next st) twice. 2 st, (2 st on next st) twice. 16 st, (2 st on next st) twice. 2 st, 2 st on next st. slip st.

4^th row: ch 1, 20 st. (2 st on next st) twice. 2 st, . (2 st on next st) twice. 20 st, . (2 st on next st) twice. 2 st, . (2 st on next st) twice. Sl st.

5^th row: ch 1, 20 st. (2 st on next st) twice. 6 st, . (2 st on next st) twice. 20 st, . (2 st on next st) twice. 6 st, . (2 st on next st) twice. Sl st. Turn

6^th row: ch 1, 22 st (2 st on next st) thrice 4 st (2 st on next st), 22 st (2 st on next st) thrice 4 st (2 st on next st). Sl st. (Fasten Off)

(Right Foot)

7^th row: ch 1, Sk 7 st, 23 st, Turn

(Left Foot)

7^th row: ch 1, 23 st, Turn

8^th row: ch 1, 6 st, (2 st on next st) twice. 4 st, 2 st on next st, 4 st. Turn

9^th row: ch 1, 18 st, sl st.

10^th row: ch 1, sk 1^st st, 15 st

11^th row: ch 1, sk st, 10 st. Fasten Off

Straps:

Strap 1 (Use two strands of Yarn A): ch 15, turn, 14 sc, turn, 13 sl st. Fasten Off.

Strap 2 (Use two strands of Yarn A): ch 23, turn, 22 sc, turn, 21 sl st. Fasten Off.

Strap 3 (Use two strands of Yarn A): ch 33, turn, 32 sc, turn, 31 sl st. Fasten Off.

Strap 4&5 (Use four strands of Yarn A): ch 165. Fold the string into two. Cut in Half. Fasten off both ends

Felting:

If you used faux-animal hair, skip this step.

Soak Top Sole (if Yarn B is untreated wool) in hot water (preferably water that just got boiled) with dishwashing liquid for 5-10 minutes (as desired – or longer). Remove the cloth from hot water. Be careful with being burned. Gently hand wash the cloth until felting occurs. Soak again to hot water. Repeat procedure til desired texture is achieve. Wash the soap in cold water. Let the sole dry.

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Assembly:

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Fit Top Sole and middle sole on top of each other. Position the straps as shown on the left.

Secure the straps by sewing it (into top sole to middle sole) firmly and tightly. Make sure no straps are loose.

Sew the straps 4 and 5 near the back of the sole.

Using Yarn B, sew top sole and middle sew (running stitches)

Fit bottom sole and top sole together. Using Yarn B, attach two soles by sc st together.

Finished Product

Free Pattern: Ribbed Hexagonal Beret

😀 I’m in a good mood to give away the patterns i wrote before Guys, dig in!

Ribbed Hexagonal Beret

Size: Fits average women’s head

Materials: Mint Green Acrylic Yarn [Fingering Weight] (4 Strands), 3.0mm Hook

Instructions:

Chain 4, slip st to form a ring.

Round 1: chain 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 12 sc into ring. Join with a sl st in first ch.

Round 2: ch 3(counts as 1 dc) FPDc on same stitch. 2Dc on next st *dc on next st, FPDc on same st., 2 dc on

next st.* Repeat * 5 times. Join with a sl st in 3rd chain..

Round 3: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 2dc on next 2

st, 2dc on next st, 2dc on next 2 st,*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st,2dc on next 2 st, 2dc next st,

2dc on next 2 st*. Repeat * 5 times.Slip stitch on second chain of row.

Round 4: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 3dc on next 3

st, 2dc on next st, 3dc on next 3 st,*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 3dc on next 3 st, 2dc on next

st, 3dc on next 3 st*. Repeat * 5 times.Slip stitch on second chain of row.

Round 5: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 4dc on next 4

st, 2dc on next st, 4dc on next 4 st,*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 4dc on next 4 st, 2dc on next

st, 4dc on next 4 st*. Repeat * 5 times.Slip stitch on second chain of row.

Round6: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 5dc on next 5 st,

2dc on next st, 5dc on next 5 st,*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 5dc on next 5 st, 2dc on next st,

5dc on next 5 st*. Repeat * 5 times.Slip stitch on second chain of row.

Round 7: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 6dc on next 6

st, 2dc on next st, 6dc on next 6 st,*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 6dc on next 6 st, 2dc on next

st, 6dc on next 6 st*. Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 8: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 7dc on next 7

st, 2dc on next st, 7dc on next 7 st,*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 7dc on next 7 st, 2dc on

next st, 7dc on next 7st*. Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 9: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 8dc on next 8

st, 2dc on next st, 8dc on next 8 st,*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 8dc on next 8 st, 2dc on next

st, 8dc on next 8st*. Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 10: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 9dc on next 9

st, 3dc on next st, 9dc on next 9 st,*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 9dc on next 9 st, 3dc l on

next st, 9dc on next 9st*. Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 11: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 10dc on next

10st, (2dc on next st) 2 times, 10dc on next 10 st,*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 10dc on next

10 st, (2dc on next st) 2 times, 10dc on next 10 st,*. Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 12: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 11dc on next

11 st, (2dc on next st), dc on next st, (2dc on next st) 11 dc on next 11 st,*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on

skipped st, 11dc on next 11 st, (2dc on next st), dc on next st, (2dc on next st), 11dc on next 11 st*. Repeat * 5

times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 13: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 30 dc on next

30 st, *skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 30dc on next 30 st, *. Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on

Round 14: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 31 dc on next

31 st, *skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 31dc on next 31 st, *. Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on

second chain of row second chain of row

Round 15: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st.15 dc on next

15 st, 2dc cluster on next 2st, 15dc on next 15 st *skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 315 dc on next

15 st, 2dc cluster on next 2st, 15dc on next 15 st *. Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 16: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 2dc cluster on

next 2st, 12 dc on next 12 st, (2dc cluster on next 2st) 2 times, 12 dc on next 12 st, 2dc cluster on next 2st,

*skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, 2dc cluster on next 2st, 12 dc on next 12 st, (2dc cluster on next

2st) 2 times, 12 dc on next 12 st, 2dc cluster on next 2st, *. Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 17: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. (2dc cluster on

next 2st)2 times, 9 dc on next 9 st, (2dc cluster on next 2st) , dc on next st, (2dc cluster on next 2st), 9dc on

next 9 st, (2dc cluster on next 2st)2 times, *skip st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, (2dc cluster on next

2st)2 times, 9 dc on next 9 st, (2dc cluster on next 2st) , dc on next st, (2dc cluster on next 2st), 9dc on next 9

st, (2dc cluster on next 2st)2 times, *. Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 18: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. skip st, (2dc

cluster on next 2st) , 7 dc on next 7 st, (2dc cluster on next 2st) 3 times 7 dc on next 7 st, (2dc cluster on next

2st), skip next st., *skip next st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, skip st, (2dc cluster on next 2st) , 7 dc on

next 7 st, (2dc cluster on next 2st) 3 times 7 dc on next 7 st, (2dc cluster on next 2st), skip next st.,*. Repeat * 5

times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 19: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. (2dc cluster

on next 2st) 2 times, 14 dc on next14 st, (2dc cluster on next 2st)2 times *skip next st, FPDc on next st, FPDc

on skipped st, skip st, (2dc cluster on next 2st) 2 times, 14 dc on next14 st, (2dc cluster on next 2st)2 times ,*.

Repeat * 5 times. Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 20: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 18FPDc on

next 18 st *skip next st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, skip st, 18FPDc on next 18 st ,*. Repeat * 5 times.

Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 21: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 18BPDc on

next 18 st *skip next st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, skip st, 18BPDc on next 18 st ,*. Repeat * 5 times.

Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 22: chain 1 (does not count as stitch). Skip st, FPSc on next st, ch 2. FPDc on skipped st. 18FPDc on

next 18 st *skip next st, FPDc on next st, FPDc on skipped st, skip st, 18FPDc on next 18 st ,*. Repeat * 5 times.

Slip stitch on second chain of row

Round 23: ch 1(does not count as stitch) Half Double crochet on each st. Slip st on first ch.

Pattern Diagram:

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PROJECT 1: Mini Motif Crochet Pattern 16

PROJECT 2: Arum Lily Dangling Earrings